18 d’abril 2008

LES BANYADORES (CABRERA DE MAR)

La veritat és que a mi el tipus d’escalada del Maresme (predomini de l’adherència sobre granit rogenc) no m’agrada gaire, però també crec que s’ha de practicar en tot tipus de roca i descobrir paisatges nous sempre és un al·licient suficient per mi. El passat diumenge ens vam llevar tard i es preveien pluges a la tarda, així que vam considerar una bona opció fer la nostra primera visita a aquesta popular zona. Un cop més vam anar amb la Gemma i el Pol i allí ens vam trobar amb un altre insigne blogger: en Pekas.




Pekas en acció (Cri-Crox,5c)

La zona ni em va decebre ni em va entusiasmar; simplement em vaig trobar el que m’esperava: predomini de vies d’adherència bastant curtes, equipament força bo, però amb moltes reunions situades de forma que la corda frega moltíssim (detall important, tenint en compte lo abrasiva que és la roca). En teoria predominen les vies fàcils (V/V+), però si no estem acostumats a aquest tipus d’escalada, al principi costa una mica. Hi ha algunes vies més difícils, però en general són molt rebuscades i poc lògiques, o vies pràcticament de bloc. Els sectors i les vies que vam fer foren:
SECTOR AMAZÒNIA:
-Ondina, 5b, 18m (**). Típica placa tombada de la zona. Ideal per un primer contacte amb la roca i l’escalada predominant del lloc.
-La petita Laura, 5c, 10m (*). Curta i força explosiva.
-De les nenes, 4c, 18m (**). Fàcil i divertida via. Una mica d’adherència al començament, però de seguida enganxem bons cantos.
-De la vespino, 6a+, 18m (**). Finíssima entrada d’adherència i segona meitat molt més fàcil,
-Amazònia, 6a, 18m (**). Similar a l’anterior, però a mi em va costar més, per culpa d’un pas morfològic on em faltava un pamet per arribar a la regleta bona. Això exigia un pas de molta fe en els peus. (foto dreta).
SECTOR CLÀSSIC:
-Aresta final, 5c, 25m (**). Probablement una de les millors i més representatives vies de Banyadores. Final aeri, tècnic i espectacular. Llàstima que la primera meitat desmereix una mica.
-The fly, 6a+, 10 m (**). Curta i explosiva. Roca molt abrasiva amb petites regletes i foradets. Actualment li escauria millor el nom de “the bee” pel niu d’abelles "assassines" (...i si no pregunteu-li a la Gemma) que hi ha a l’esquerra de la reunió.
-Mosquit, 6b+, 10m (**). A l’esquerra de l’anterior. Més del mateix, però encara més explosiva, més abrasiva i amb les abelles més a prop!...tant a prop que una em comença a voleiar pels cabells i m’obliga a baixar. No és excusa, tampoc l'hagués encadenat!...i la veritat no em venia gaire de gust treballar-la.

Pol a Sinuosa (5b)
-Infanticides compulsius, 6a, 10m (*). Per acabar la jornada faig dues vies seguides que tenen com a tònica dominant algun pas aïllat de molta adherència. Aquesta, la primera i més difícil.
-Doctor muerte, 5c, 10m (*)

Per acabar només dir que la Gemma i el Pol també van anar al sector Yosemite i ens van comentar que eren vies molt a bloc.

Pere, Nesa, Pol i el castell de Burriac

Podeu trobar més informació a:
- Blog d’en Mohawk (josep Escoda)
- Guia d’escalada del Maresme, del mateix Mohawk
- Vèrtex nº216, també article de Josep Escoda
-
Ressenyes a Madteam

45 comentaris:

Mohawk ha dit...

Ja,ja,ja... com acaparo les referències!!

Si t'he de ser sincer a mi tampoc m'agrada l'escalada de les Banyadores (excepció Mongo i Yosemite), però és un sector proper a la urbe, ben equipat i amb vies fàcils...

Tot i que intueixo que l'escalada a bloc no t'agrada, et recomano la visita a Cèllecs...

A tibar-li!!

Gemma ha dit...

Pietro, hauries d'avisar a tothom que el niu d'abelles és MOLT PERILLÓS! A mi em van picar al cap (encara hi tinc una fava) i a l'esquena mentre baixava del 6c "Industria Argentina" al costat de "Le Mosquit", poca broma!
No vegis com vaig patir per recuperar les cintes :(
Pobres abelles, les he perdonat del tot, vaig ser jo que em vaig ficar a casa seva... però no vaig veure el niu fins que les vaig tenir a sobre :(
Abelles a part, a mi no em va entusiasmar aquest tipus d'escalada... i la placa Yosemite és el mateix portat a l'extrem! Vaig flipar amb el 7a "Indiana Pou"! Com puja la gent per allà? Fent ventosa amb el melic???? Mohawk, l'has encadenat?
Després d'una jornada com la de diumenge, em moro de ganes d'anar als desploms de Calders :) Us apunteu? (encara que sigui tard...)

Mohawk ha dit...

Ja,ja,ja... Calders! El recurso fácil, eh!!

És broma! Però s'ha de dir que aquest tipus d'escalada és amor - odi, o t'agrada molt o l'odies. Requereix paciència i fe, i els graus alts estan una mica apretats.

Tot i això el teu comentari m'ha servit per recordar que la "Indiada Pou..." no la tenia encadenada, perquè fa un any em vaig caure després de fer els passos xungos i em vaig rallar. Així que aquest matí hi he anat i ja està encadenada. Com patina el granit vermell!! La vas probar, per això?

A tibar-li fieres!!

Pietro ha dit...

Eiii Mohawk, ja ho veus, estàs de moda noi, jejeje! si és que la feina ben feta no té fronteres!
A Cèllecs hi vaig anar fa molts anys, quan començava a escalar. Tampoc en tinc gaire bon record, però potser sí que li hauris de donar una segona oportunitat!
Felicitats per l'encadene de la Indiana Pou ;)

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Ep Pere, això dels blogs fa que de quan en quan trobis algún ciberconegut, com us va passar amb el Pekas, a mí aquest dissabte em va passar amb el Mingo de Conqueridors de l'inútil, no sembla lleig el sector aquest, jo no hi he anat mai però m'agradaria, Céllecs, com tú hi vaig anar fa molts anys, quan començava a escalar i la veritat no em va desagradar, el granit de Les Banyadores és com el de Solius?

PGB ha dit...

Hey Jaume, el de Solius es mes adherent ja que no te tant quars. El de banyadores es soba en alguns punts... :(

Tot i aixi, per anar-hi del plan fer moltes vies facils, inciar a companys, passar una tarda agradable... val la pena. Tampoc cal posar-li la creu ;P

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Hola Pere!
Bona ressenya i ... fantàstiques les fotos! M'encanta tenir tant protagonisme gràfic (que no pas d'encadenaments, eh): fixeu-vos en el meu "amic" polzet del peu dret que treu el cap a l'última foto! ... ens veiem després del pont! Records.

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The moment you figured out you won, you must immediately yell BINGO, and it should be loud enough for the floor walker to hear. The pot money shall be given to the winner once their winning card is confirmed. Well, in winning or once you know you just won, the most important thing is that you shout the winning word BEFORE the time elapses. If the game proceeds and the next number is mentioned and you failed to shout "Bingo", your winning card is disqualified. Therefore, this is the rule you must know.

There may be cases when there are two winners, and in this case the pot money shall be divided equally among the winners. Supposing there are two winning cards, the two winners will share half the prize money.

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